If you’re an avid watcher of Bravo’s Top Chef show on the telly, you may recognize our mate Chef Claudette Wilkins of El Jardin in San Diego. We know her as an #aussome talent, encyclopedia of regional Mexican cooking, and just a great gal to be around. Anyone, peers and critics alike, called a “badass,” “fearless” and “genius,” we’re probably going to like, but chefs with talent aren’t necessarily likeable…let alone lovable like Claudette! We caught up with her shortly after she cooked at the James Beard House in NYC for a quick chat about her highly acclaimed El Jardin and of course, Aussie lamb.
Claudette describes the food at El Jardin as “grandma food with better presentation,” and in the words of one reviewer, “An audacious, modern interpretation of regional Mexican cooking…edgy comfort food.” We just call it tasty, and we love what she does there with Aussie lamb. It’s a lamb shank barbacoa, a classic low-and-slow preparation from her native Mexico. We’ll let her explain:
"This dish is based off traditional lamb barbacoa from Hidalgo, where it would be buried underground, wrapped in maguey (agave) leaves, buried for 12 hours, and served with salsa borracha — literally “drunk” but just spiked with a little alcohol. We replicate that as best we can with a caja china, smoking the lamb in maguey and avocado leaves, and spiking the salsa with a housemade tepache, which is a low-alcohol ferment of pineapple.”
TA: What are the avocado leaves for? What do they add to the dish?
“The avocado leaves impart an anise-like flavor, herbal and aromatic that not only complements the lamb, but I think helps make it familiar to my guests who are used to lamb served with herbs and aromatics.”
TA: What do you like about cooking with Aussie lamb?
“As a chef, everything is easier when your main protein is clean and consistent, without any off flavors or gaminess. With Aussie lamb, you’re not trying to hide anything, there are no worries about what a dish will taste like week to week, and you can let the ingredients and natural, clean flavors do the talking.”
What ingredients and flavors pair well with lamb?
“In this dish, I pair it with heirloom beans in a similar flavor profile as the lamb; that creaminess is great next to the lamb, which is crispy on the outside. Flavor-wise, a bit of sweet and spicy is a great complement to lamb in almost any context; it’s why the adobo in this dish works so well.”
Congrats to Claudette for her success, good onya Chef! We can’t wait to see what’s next.