What should our readers know about your background?
I started as a self-taught sushi chef, made my way into being an executive chef. It’s just my nature to absorb everything I can and then reach for that next thing, even if I don’t know it all yet. I’m old enough to know what it was like before the world was in your pocket - you had to learn by doing, reading and going to the source. James Beard chef Mark Militello hired me for my first chef job in Miami, doing Floribbean style sushi. Then I was running and managing multiple sushi places. I took 5 days a month to travel and learn, always looking to find something new. Then MGM saw a feature on me and my sushi in Crunch Fitness magazine of all places. They brought me to Vegas and I was hooked, I got to meet my culinary heroes - Robuchon, Guy Savoy, you name it.
You had the chance to go Down Under to see Aussie Beef & Lamb up close. What are some of the impressions that have stayed with you from the trip?
The people more than anything. From the farmers to the chefs, everyone we met just has this deep understanding of what it’s about and why. The care that goes into every detail – the water, the land, the pastures they grow, the animals, and taking care of their own people. I’ve seen production in other places, and what Australia does is really on another level. They do it because it’s the best way, not out of habit or because of some outside constraint. You can’t fake that.
What do you tell your chef peers about Aussie proteins?
The passion translates to the product and what we can put on the plate. The quality and consistency is #1. I know every time I go to work on a piece of Aussie beef or lamb it’s going to have consistent quality, flavor every time. Anyone can make something great…but can you do it plate after plate? When you’re using Australian, the answer is yes.
Do you have a favorite cut?
Lamb breast and lamb ribs are some of my favorites right now. Now that they’re more available here, it opens up a lot of options for BBQ and ways you would use pork. They carry flavors really well and really stand out on the menu.
Tell me about this Ilocano dish – dinakdakan (pron. "dee-nuhk-DAH-kahn")
It was invented in Pampanga in Luzon province in the Philippines the home of Ilocano language and culture, where it would be called sisig. It came about from lechon – you roast a whole pig for a big function, you get these leftover bits and pieces – ears, face, etc. that no-one is grabbing. Dinakdakan is a way to make those forgotten parts delicious, especially later on in the evening when you’re drinking with your friends. In this version we boil the meat, grill it to make it crispy, chop it up and mix it with a vinegary dressing, almost like a meaty cole slaw. Always calamansi for acid and lots of aromatics. Today we use mayo for creaminess, it’s a nice upgrade from traditional pig brains! It’s a lot about texture; crispy, chewy, fatty. You want a little bit of everything – Aussie lamb leg or even shoulder works really well. Aussie lamb is just not like other lamb – it’s so mild and versatile, it brings its own thing to the party but doesn’t overwhelm it.